Granada and Cordoba

I just arrived back from a short break in Granada and Cordoba. The first thing I have to say is, unless you are absolutely confident how to drive on the other side of the road, DON’T drive in Spain! It is very confusing and extremely awkward. ***** It is very interesting to see the differences between Muslim and Christian architecture in Granada. Muslim architecture seems to place more emphasis on the internal design while Christian architecture emphasizes the external. Alhambra, the showcase of Muslim architecture in Granada, is extremely beautiful in the inside. The external walls of Alhambra are pretty plain. It was obvious that the walls around the Alhambra were built mainly for defence purposes. Even the walls of buildings inside Alhambra are pretty plain too. But as you step inside any of the Muslim-built buildings inside Alhambra, you will realise how detailed and intricate the architecture is. Everything seems to have a meaning. The ceiling design in some rooms in Palacio Nazari depicts the layers of the heaven. Water is used in Generalife and throughout Alhambra to produce a sense of calm and added space. Things are arranged in a way to illustrate the oneness of the Creator. The walls have detailed engravings of poems or verses of the Quran. Windows are placed strategically to ensure rooms are well-lit. And many more. But buildings built by Christians after the reconquista are very different. The Palacios de Carlos V was magnificent externally but the inside was not even completed fully by Carlos V. There was a building in Jardines de Partal (I can’t remember the name of the building) which was also empty apart from the ceilings that has PLVS OVLTRE engraved on the wood panellings. Outside Alhambra, the Catedral is impressive from the outside - the statues, etc were magnificient. But inside it was just a bare collection of chapels. The chapels are well-decorated but the Catedral itself was disappointing and dark. The central area of the Catedral was literally empty if not for the massive organ. I noticed similar differences in Cordoba too. The Mezquita’s external is very simple. Just plain wall with some engravings. But the inside was exquisite. The arches, the pillars, the mihrab and many more were simply beautiful. But walk next door to Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos and you will notice the difference again. The inside of the whole of Alcazar was nowhere near the beauty of the Mezquita. Were it not for the Moorish decorations and Muslim inspired garden, I think it would be a boring building. ***** When the Muslim ruler first built Mezquita in Cordoba, they did so for a very good purpose. They needed a proper centre for their civilization. Once the Mezquita (and Cordoba) was relatively complete, successive rulers felt the need to build new cities. Hence the birth of Madinah Al-Zahraa to the west of Cordoba and Madinah Al-Zahiraa (exact location still unknown). These latter two townships were built mainly because successive rulers felt the need to leave a legacy by building a new township. In real sense, there was no need for either one because Cordoba was doing just fine. Interestingly, only Cordoba (and Mezquita) survived until today. Madinah Al-Zahiraa was completely ruined such that any remnants are yet to be found. Only ruins of Madinah Al-Zahraa can be found now. But Mezquita, despite now having become a church, still stands in its majesty. Concrete evidence (literally) that things built or done for superficial purposes will not stand the test of time, but those that were done for a purpose will last. ***** Flamenco is not that interesting. I went to see a show in what was apparently the second best place to see Flamenco in Granada (it was in Sacromonte). It started at 9.00 pm and finished at around 11.00 pm. Two women took turns to dance, a fat man played the guitar, and an even fatter man yowled in Spanish. For 20 euros, it was a waste of money. ***** Whoever it was that planted so many orange trees around Granada, I would suggest they get the sweeter variety. What they have now are very sour. Believe me. I tried one. ***** All in all, I think the trip was very good. Both Granada and Cordoba are beautiful cities and well-worth a visit. The public transport was excellent. Food was good too and Albaicin was littered with halal restaurants. People are generally very helpful, despite me not knowing Spanish. I would recommend both cities to anyone.